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Tuesday, 13 May 2008

Right Royal Car Boot Sale


Q: What do The Greenwich Phantom and HRH The Duke of Edinburgh have in common?
A: When they went to the Historic Dockyards at Chatham they were both really only interested in seeing one thing - the bits and bobs of the Cutty Sark that are currently in storage there.


To be honest I didn't really think they'd be in some place the public could go. And I certainly didn't expect to see them in the open air. For some reason I just assumed that they would be being kept in a warehouse somewhere obscure, under lock and key. But on a family day out to Chatham Dockyard I just had to ask where it was.

The answer is on a very dull piece of dock, in between HMS Gannet and the submarine HMS Ocelot. All lain out on the ground, surrounded by metal fencing, like a giant car boot sale. I actually passed the stuff twice before finding it - it just looks like a pile of marine scrap - which I guess in some respects it is.

One of the orange-boiler-suited chaps who show people round, told me that the Cutty Sark guys rang round all the dockyards looking for space. Most of it's here, but not all; it's in various places - some's even down in Portsmouth - which at least spreads the risk. And it is behind metal fence, and the whole site is locked at night. But somehow it just feels a bit - well - vulnerable, to me. After all, a chap in the Ropery on the same site said that a giant coil of 28" rope that was not even useful to HMS Ark Royal got half-inched this winter - and some of the Cutty Sark's parts are really quite small and must have 'souvenir' value...


But what I really find so odd about it all is that this is a museum with paying visitors - you'd think they'd make a bit more of it. There's no sign, no note on it to say that this pile of junk is part of possibly the most famous ship in the world. You'd think they'd cash in, give it a sign and perhaps have someone dedicated to showing visitors what there is and what's going on with it (complete with collecting box - they still have a few million to find...)

The guy (whom I had to seek out - he certainly wasn't hanging around the stuff) told me that work has been done on it - especially the cabins (not that you'd notice it just yet) and people are interested - when The Duke of Edinburgh came to unveil a sculpture he was far more interested in making them show him round the Cutty Sark stuff (hooray - a royal patron who actually cares about their cause...)


And I really think that everyday visitors (and Phantoms, natch) would want to see it too - as it is I'd say that 99% of them will be just walking straight past this right-royal jumble sale, without even noticing it. I mean - I know the Dockyard's being paid for it - but this isn't the Big Yellow Self Storage Company looking after a couple of old wardrobes and some skiing gear here - they're missing a trick. It's all in full view - and yet somehow it's invisible.


But whatever. The main thing is that it wasn't on board the ship in Greenwich last May. And for that I am grateful. And there seem to be chalk markings everywhere so that the jigsaw will go back together again easily:



One other interesting thing about Chatham Royal Dockyard for Greenwich-o-philes (apart from the Chatham Chest) is that the guy also told me the giant 18th Century brick-built Dockyard Foundry (which has to be 150m in length) and which is being restored now:

will, by 2010, house the National Maritime Museum's collection of model ships. Apparently whenever a new ship is built a model HAS to be made of it - and the NMM holds them all, currently in storage. We will be able to see them soon, thanks to a £13m lottery grant.

But don't leave it that long - do give Chatham a visit. The guy told me (before he got called away to deal with a double-parked steam engine - I kid you not) that very sunny days like these are generally quiet because everyone goes to the coast instead...

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14 Comments:

Blogger Dazza said...

HOW MUCH???????
I know that these places have to make money to stay open and operating but £13.50 each is a bit steep!!
I read your post with great interest and thought what fun it would be to go along and have a look around.....but when I started adding up the Transport and entry I realise that a low income family such as mine would never be able to afford a trip. Pity, from the website it looks very enticing and as you say, with the connection to Greenwich it's a great day out of town.
By the way did you see on the website that the Cutty Sark 'bits' have been given the 'Celebrity' treatment? Having their own page, with pics!! Pity they don't advertise the fact onsite.
OH, well, another day out in the park it is then.........

13 May 2008 13:55  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

It IS a bit scary, I'll grant you that, Dazza. Which is why I keep going - the entry cost is for a year - so I'm trying to go as many times as possible so that it's cost-effective. If you can do that it's worth it, as the site is HUGE - you can't see it all in one day. The Ropery alone is a quarter of a mile long (it's the biggest brick-built building in the world, I understand.) There is a LOT to do.

There are various concessions (if you're a member of English Heritage - certain people I was with this weekend are) you can get a percentage off, for example) but the best thing is to just go lots...

But yes - for a family £38 is a lot of cash.

13 May 2008 14:05  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

And no - I'd missed the section on the website - not sure how. The pics are excellent - much better than mine...

13 May 2008 14:10  
Blogger Dazza said...

I hadn't realised the entry lasted a year.
As there are 3 Adults in my family and no concessions the entry alone would be £40.50 and then Train fare of £27.90......£68.40!! OUCH!!
Either I need to get a better job (difficult) or win the Lottery (unlikely).
I suppose its the price I pay for the fact I only have to commute 3 foot every day (from bed to desk)....work my own hours.....no Boss breathing down my neck....OK I'll quit while I'm ahead!!!

13 May 2008 14:21  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Yes - that's the big problem. We came across a similar thing with Portsmouth Docks and Bletchley Park - I guess it gives us incentive to go back, but it's extremely painful at the time.

If you think that's steep though, don't even THINK about trying to go to the Tower of London - 16.50 per adult - and that's just for one visit - no returns.

13 May 2008 14:32  
Blogger Dazza said...

A couple of years back I drove one of the Tourist Open top buses and I used to be embarrassed about how much they were fleeced by the 'Attractions' in the City.
And only this week we are hearing how they are staying away from the City due to the credit crunch. Maybe if they lowered their prices people wouldn't have to be getting a mortgage to be able to visit!!!

13 May 2008 15:40  
Anonymous Edith said...

did you ask what the building was that it is stored in? from the photos it looks like one of the Victorian covered ship building sheds - in their day some of the largest enclosed spaces ever built. One (or two?) at Chatham were moved there from Woolwich some years ago - and there is still one on the big site at Deptford - they call it 'Olympia' in the plans.
and I'm sorry if the model ships go to Chatham - did they say if they are the ones from the incredible collection at Kidbrooke and/or the ones in the Brass Foundry at Woolwich?

13 May 2008 16:18  
Blogger Benedict said...

Yes I thought they might have been displayed better than they have, I know its fairly temporary in museum terms , plus as the Phantom says a bit car bootish ,my thought when I read what they have there:
Two elegant teak Deck Houses
Two teak covers to companionways
Three masts with spars and associated rigging
An assortment of ‘deck furniture’ and equipment,
was that it sounded like a job lot at Greenwich Auctions!
Plus why doesnt the NMM have a link to them or the visitor centre tell us,
how did the Phantom Phind this not so little gem?
V iteresting BTW.

13 May 2008 16:30  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Edith - I didn't ask - I assumed the were in storage and that it was a way of getting more stuff on display. I hope that's the case...

Benedict - much as I'd like to say I sought it out, I was going to Chatham anyway, and I thought I'd just idly ask someone where the Cutty Sark stuff was. I was staggered to find that I could actually see it.

Always pays to ask, though Edith makes it clear it's never possible to ask too much.

13 May 2008 16:35  
Blogger Benedict said...

dazza, yup that is a mighty lot of hard earned wonga to shell out, but at least there is masses of free stuff to do in London . Foreign guests of ours are always amazed at the amount of galleries and museums that are gratis and usually find themselves with spare cash at the end of a trip......which is usually when I suggest they show their appreciation by taking me and the missus to the Spread Eagle for dinner!

13 May 2008 16:39  
Blogger Dazza said...

Thanks for reminding us all about the wonderful Museums and Galleries that don't charge entrance. I used to keep a list of free and cheap venues with me when I was driving so that if anyone asked I could point them in the right direction. And as the bus was a 'jump on, jump off' variety (I even sometimes stopped to let them off.....aren't I good??) I used to draw little maps of where would be good to walk from one stop to the other taking in some of the sights and sounds of our City. But that was then and this is now.....now it's my turn to use the free and cheap ones....sniff, sniff....please Sir, can I have some more??
Maybe I should go back onto the dole....probably get more money/benefits!!!!

13 May 2008 16:59  
Anonymous wendy said...

Changing the subject a bit, but the Docklands Museum at West India Quay is only £5.00 entrance and the ticket lasts for a year too. Well worth a visit I say.

14 May 2008 14:18  
Blogger Benedict said...

Wendy I love MiD as well. I always pay a visit to "Sailortown" my fav, especially with all the authentic smells.

14 May 2008 14:47  
Anonymous Mrs Bins said...

A friend of mine is a guide at the Dockyard and I recall last year, on the day of the fire at Cutty Sark, she emailed me a whole load of photographs she'd taken of the parts stored at her place of work to cheer me up as she knew how upset I'd be. Each time I speak with her she always says, "We're still looking after your ship, you know!" I really ought to go there and have a look myself.

14 May 2008 18:10  

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