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Friday, 31 August 2007

The Thames Path

Gwladys Street has sent me this - maybe someone else has some news on it...

"The riverside path is now closed from the Cutty Sark pub to the boat repairers yard. No notices explaining how long this is likely to before. The diversion takes people away from the river turning left at The Pelton Arms (a tidy, well-kept pub that seems to attract a respectable local clientele- and which will do well out of the temporary route). Lots of activity on two very large building sites-piles for buildings being drilled already. Somebody is going to make a great deal of money out of this development..."

Sadly it won't be me. I'll be looking into this when I can, but for now, folks, I'm taking a break. Normal service should resume next Wednesday. Happy Greenwich times...

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Thursday, 30 August 2007

Billingsgate Fish Market


It's a bourgeois tragedy. The meat's bought (GG Sparkes) the cheese and veg is safely gathered in (Cheeseboard and Creaky Shed) vast vats worth of wine, port and sherry arrived(Theatre of Wine - delivery's free) but - zut alors! The Fishmonger's closed for the week! What's a phantom to do? Only one thing to do - brave the Blackwall Tunnel and the hour-that-dare-not speak its name, and Go Wholesale...

I utterly hate getting up when there's a five in the hour. It makes me literally ill - some kind of weird pressure thing at that time of the day seems to contract my chest and make me really rather queasy. I will do anything to avoid it - including getting up when there's a four in the hour. Billingsgate opens at five on a weekday (no Mondays, remember, and only shellfish on a Sunday)and because we knew nothing about how the place works we decided to turn up as soon after then as possible.

As it happens, it seems that the real rush happens about an hour later - and who can blame a bleary fishmonger for wanting to get an extra hour in bed? These guys do it every day, including winter - yeuch - and I confess I have a new-found respect for Julian at The Fishmonger Ltd for doing it. The only thing that would make me go at 5.30am again is the Blackwall Tunnel - really quite fluid at 5.15 - and going back south at six, but with a good queue building already on the other side going north. And from a buying point of view 5.30 seems a good time to arrive too. The car park is busy but not overflowing; the fishmongers doing a fair trade but still able to talk.

I confess that being quite a shy and retiring kinda phantom I was a little nervous of a wholesale market. I was concerned that I would stick out like the proverbial sore thumb as the tourist among all the Gordon Ramsays, Marco-Pierre Whites and, er, Julians. I had this image that the traders might be quite hostile to someone who didn't want to buy a hundredweight of Dover Sole or a whole barrel full of eels. I had also assumed that there would be no prices anywhere and a sort of Turkish bazaar-style haggling system would be the norm. I had, of course, forgotten one thing. This is Britain.

Billingsgate is one of those things everyone should do at least once in their lives, even if only so that they know what they're buying at The Fishmonger, and what goes on to get the goods to the shop. Wandering around the place is an education in itself, though not, I understand, as atmospheric as the old Billingsgate in the City, whose cellars, I have heard rumoured, took several years to thaw out when it was redeveloped by greedy people in the 80s. Their loss is our gain, I say. The market's new location makes it about 12 minutes by car. You could go by DLR to Canary Wharf (about ten minutes walk from the market,) but you might not be popular with other passengers on the way home.

The main market is, of course, covered, and a lot quieter than I had expected. As you know by now, I live in some kind of hazy 1960s time warp in my head and although there is friendly Alfred Doolittle costermonger-type banter going on (yeah, yeah, I know he was fruit & veg,) it's not the racket I had imagined - and not a single geezer with one of them silly 'ats on at all. Nobody seemed to be in the slightest bit interested in the tourists - ie. us - they were too busy going about their business, and we happily wandered up and down the aisles marvelling at the sheer variety of sea life we'd never heard of. I mean - what the hell do you do with a Ribbon Fish?

The whoppers are sold individually. We bought the biggest salmon we could fit in the fish kettle for a tenner - the truly mooosive ones were about twenty quid. While we were about it we bought a huge side of smoked salmon, also for ten pounds.

Of course where retail fishmongers really come into their own is with the giant fish - the halibuts, for example - you really do need to buy the whole damn thing when one slice from the local fish shop would feed a family of four for a month. All the individual can do is wonder at these majestic creatures laid out on slabs of ice.

Most of the smaller fish you need to buy by the boxful so its well worth going with friends and divvying up the spoils or making sure you have a LOT of room in the freezer. We bought a box of beautifully-filleted rainbow trout for fourteen pounds - there were thirteen in there, which makes them just over a pound each (unprepared trout was much cheaper.) As a final treat, we bought a kilo of gigantic king scallops also for fourteen pounds(with free plastic box, whoopee.)

We were treated with courtesy and smiled at by people who, at that hour of the morning could be forgiven for being very crabby indeed. There are two greasy-spoon type cafes in the place, but we didn't stop to test them (they looked fantastic)as we had one eye on the tunnel.

Back home we divided the scallops into sensible amounts in separate bags, and clingfilmed individual trout fillets we weren't going to use. Our freezer is now full to bursting - and anyone coming to dinner chez Phantom can expect scallops, salmon and trout for the foreseeable future.

It's still only 7.43am. I can't believe I'm up. I'd forgotten how good coffee is this time of day.

Seriously folks. Try this once. Take the pain, get up at 5.00am. Wander around, experience a little bit of London's heritage, buy some fish (oh - handy tip - take plenty of bin bags to put your loot in - some supply bags, others don't, you don't want it dripping everywhere) - and then grovel before Julian's feet, knowing he goes through this rigmarole every day.

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Wednesday, 29 August 2007

The Old Friends

Gwladys Street told me that this 'classic' establishment of olde Greenwich has closed - but I needed to see it with my own eyes before getting too upset...

I checked it out and yes, it has indeed, got that 'closed-for-good' feel about it - huge metal grilles across all the windows and doors, which Gwladys reckons is to keep the old regulars in, but concedes could be the new decor for when it reopens as a crack-den.

I can't work out whether to be delighted or saddenend by the death of this place. In some respects it represents what Greenwich used to be - presumably all the pubs around here were once as unreconstituted as The Old Friends. Some are completely subsumed into takeaways or flats, the only indication that there was ever a place of social gathering, however 'not as we know it' it may have been, some curly ironwork that once supported the sign. Old Greenwich is on its way out; the industrial heart a dot on the west bank of the peninusula that seems to get smaller daily, the traditional residents of East Greenwich unable to afford to live there any more.

On the other hand, the Old Friends was, frankly, horrid. A scruffy exterior and a dingy interior where your feet would stick to the carpet before you could order a pint of Courage Best and the regulars formed a chicane of beer-guts against intruders. I guess you could call it 'local colour' when the chalkboards outside the place let you know that Alvin's disco was on 8 til late or that there would be free seafood on Sunday, but those messages were often just shy of offensive - who can forget "England - Love it or Leave..." Some of them were just plain baffling - I still have no idea what the message about the smoking ban actually meant (though there is a clue later on in this entry...)

I wonder what will become of it? Will it turn into Gwladys's Crack DenTM? Become a trendy wine bar? A chicken takeaway (The Old Frieds, perhaps?) A pachinko parlour? A lapdancing joint? Or, even more depressing than that lot put together, merely morph into 'luxury' flats, the sign of the old boy and his dog and the pub's name carved into the very fabric of the building the only things left to remind us that there was once a place of social (some might say anti-social) interraction here.

Much as I disliked the Old Friends for being a scuzzy old den, it was, at least, some kind of public venue which provided a service for some people. I don't have much expectation that it will be transformed into anything more exciting. Maybe the coming of whatever will be on the old hospital site will be its salvation, but in the meanwhile, I have actually found somewhere that - and you won't hear this too often - I would positively welcome Frank Dowling taking over. Of course he wouldn't touch it with a barge pole - but in this one particular case, he would certainly have my blessing. Without him - or someone similar, I hold out little hope.

No - I prefer to remember the good times - those sepia-tinged, halcyon days of yore when you could buy a pint of pale ale and a glass of port and lemon for your lady friend, enjoy a pickled egg together while Roger Romantic sang songs of love every Saturday night, and still have change of a groat for the bus home. I have included a lovely picture for you to remember the old place by. Incidentally, the picture also, perhaps, gives a small clue as to the closure of this hallowed boozer. The little sign in the window says "Smoking permitted throughout..."

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Tuesday, 28 August 2007

Sir James Thornhill

1675/6? - 1734

James Thornhill, in accepting Wren's commission to decorate The Painted Hall, made one fundamental mistake. He agreed to be paid after the mural was finished. In all fairness, he probably didn't imagine that it was going to take 19 years and had his eye on a little more than money at the time (as well as seeing the job as a superb advert for his skills, he fancied a knighthood and a life in politics.)

Thornhill wasn't a Greenwich guy by birth - he came from gentle stock - albeit impoverished. He got himself apprenticed to Thomas Highmore, who did fancy paintings in toff's houses across the land. He proved an apt pupil, and got a fair amount of work on graduating, but needed a special job that would act as a calling card for even more splendid commissions. The Painted Hall seemed the perfect opportunity to show off. He just hadn't counted on how long it would take.

The allegories and allusions that litter the ceiling and walls of the Painted Hall deserve a separate entry on another day, but suffice to say that it is absolutely chock-a-block with stuff going on - stuff which meant much more to an 18th Century viewer than it does to us today. He had taken this job as a way to display how good he was at painting portraits - and he certainly got a lot of practice. The Royal Family kept changing and he had to repaint sections, and since he was being paid at the end, he received no recompense for continually repainting the various Kings, queens and sundry royal hangers-ons' likenesses.

The job got out of hand in virtually every respect. The hall, originally intended as a mess room for the elderly sea dogs was covered in scaffolding and paint pots, so the pensioners had to eat downstairs in the undercroft. (They never returned, because when Thornhill finished it was deemed too posh for the likes of them, and just became a tourist attraction, where the old boys earned a few coppers by showing visitors around.)

Thornhill had his fun, with a few allegorical gags but things were really dragging on. It didn't help that various contemporaries who could have been more charitable were, frankly, sniffy about him. Sir John Vanbrugh, who was, to be honest, in a bit of a Glass house himself, thought it would be "a pleasant joke" when Thornhill, a mere "painter" applied to become Royal Architect at Greenwich. He clearly thought a playwright would be better qualified - and, of course, he was right...

In 1718, as a bit of a sop, presumably, King George I appointed him court painter, promoting him to Sergeant Painter two years later, when he also knighted him. It was the least he could do, considering how he was going to shaft the guy when he actually finished. There was a great deal of grumpiness over the bill when Thornhill's work finally came to an end.

I'm not sure how much of an insult it was to treat him as a posh painter and decorator in the end, instead of paying him as an allegorical historical artist, but it must have stung like crazy to have his life's work divvied up by the yard - three quid for the ceiling and a mere pound for the walls.

Luckily, by this point he wasn't desperate for the cash, having gone into politics in the meanwhile, and he was still able to build a rather sweet palladian country pile at Stalbridge in Dorset. He set up his own art academy where one of his saucier students, William Hogarth met and married Thornhill's daughter. Thornhill is part of Hogarth's parliamentary group 'The Goals Committee of the House of Commons.’

Nearer the end of his life he didn't have any commissions (presumably being out of the loop for 19 years didn't help much)so he set himself to copying the Rapheal Cartoons at Hampton Court. He managed a lot, but slowness still bugged him and he never completed them.

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Friday, 24 August 2007

Societies

Dennis asks:

I was wondering whether you knew of any neighbourhood or residents' associations in downtown Greenwich?

The Phantom replies:

I've been meaning to do a links page for ages - but in the meanwhile here are a few local groups. I'm not commenting on any of them here; merely listing them.

I'm sure I'm going to miss a few, so feel free to chip-in, folks...

The Greenwich Society

The Blackheath Society

The Charlton Society

The Friends of East Greenwich Pleasaunce

The Friends of Greenwich Park

Park Vista Area Residents Association

The Westcombe Society

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Costcutter

Dirk asks:

I wonder if you’ve been to the Costcutter (though the sign is a bit faded, so not sure they still have the franchise) on Greenwich Church Street? If not, it’s worth it to see what’s changed.

As I am sure you know, this is a Turkish owned convenience store much beloved by foreign language students, the winos hanging around St Alfege’s Church yard, and South London chavs on their nights out. The range of products is simply hilarious, and you have real difficulty finding a recognisable brand. Most of the stuff seems to be Polish, from other parts of Eastern Europe, or Turkish – down to the juice, coffee, biscuits etc. My neighbour reckons this is so not because the owners want to cater to the tastes of London’s Eastern European communities but because the stuff is cheap.

Which brings us onto what’s new, which is that that Costcutter no longer has a license to sell alcohol. So what? Well, if you go to the store you will see that they’ve sectioned off the whole booze section (around a third of the shelf space!) with hand written signs saying that Mr Hossein Z...(can’t remember the last name) has withdrawn the license, so no more beer and wine!

I’ve heard that Mr Hossein is in fact the owner of the property. And that the Turkish lady you see in the shop is his daughter who manages it and pays him rent. The story I heard was that she asked for a reduction in rent, and he agreed, but said cheaper rent = no more off license.

The Phantom replies:

I can't say I'm even slightly upsest about this one. The one thing that Greenwich is not short of is tatty stores that sell cheap crap. That Costcutter shop is an eyesore (as is much of that parade) and if no license means they have to clean up their act (and their shop) to regain custom so be it. So the chavs and winos need to toddle a few metres up the road to get their Special Brew. My eyes are dry - and so, I suspect, Dirk, are yours... ;-)

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Thursday, 23 August 2007

Prime Time Video

Blackheath

I made a huge faux pas the other day. Admittedly it was a Sunday morning and I'm never at my perkiest then, but this was stupidity of monumental proportions.

I went into the video shop opposite the station and was bowled over. My feet stepped onto sumptuous dark red carpet, my eyes feasted on a simple but elegant store layout and lit up at the sight of interesting stock (though it seemed a little emptier than it could be - not sure what that was about - unless they'd had a busy Saturday night.)

It was like walking into an old cinema - clearly the desired effect. Splendid fake friezes in deco style of cinematic tableaux, curved stairways leading to different areas of the shop, fab subtle lighting - even with dark red ropes on brass stands dividing areas - it was just really beautifully laid out and I was excited. A closer look at the DVDs on offer (I didn't have time to check out the videos - which appeared to be being sold off) revealed a good selection of oldies and arthouse as well as the usual blockbusters, rom-coms and action movies.

And here comes the stupidity. I suggested to the guy at the desk they open a store in Greenwich. Of course he told me they'd just shut a shop in Greenwich. DUH...

One look at the name of the shop and it all came flooding back - as did a rather fetching tomato colour to my face. Prime Time Video. Of course. I even wrote about it. I just hadn't connected this sophisticated, beautiful place to wander round and enjoy for its own sake with the scruffy old video shop that just closed in what has to be Greenwich's worst shopping centre (next door to that dodgy old Somerfields and sundry other dead shops.)

What on earth made them open up there? Why did Blackheath get the luxury treatment and Greenwich the bargain basement? Maybe it's one of those classic Greenwich/Blackheath fundamentals that seems to apply to all wine bars/restaurants and shops (with one or two fabulously inspiring exceptions - places that keep my optimism for our wonderful, exciting town.) Whatever it is, it's depressing as hell.

Greenwich deserves a video store as classy as Prime Time Video in Blackheath - somewhere the evening's entertainment begins before the film starts - and I know just the guy to do it. Here's my fantasy. An independent video store that is as fabulous to look at as Prime Vids in Blackheath in what was going to be the lapdancing club at the Plaza run by the big guy from Blockbuster who seems to know everything thre is to know about film. Now there's a place I'd visit more than it was healthy. Actually, while we're about it, how about a small screening room in there too, with selections and introductions by The Big Man Himself (must find out his name...)

Ho hum. Back to reality and what has to be the grimmest day of the year - in effing AUGUST...

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Wednesday, 22 August 2007

Village Green?

Iput posted this in a place I though few people would see it, and they raise an interesting point, so I've reprinted it here:

I would like to draw everyones attention to a matter concerning the millenium celebrations and preparsations as they were in 1999/2000. The site of my attention is the area just outside Greenwich BR statio, the junction of Greenwich South street, and the High road.

There was at this site, a triangle or old 'village green', which had probably been there since the building of the Queen Elizabeth ? almhouses in the early 19th century, and the row of mid georgian houses, (now shops), on South street. This green was wiped out by the council in the preparation for the 2000 celebrations to provide traffic control which they did by tarmaccing the entire site and planting a series of traffic signals. As it turned out , the surge of traffic on the day did not materialise , and the entire operation proved entirely surplus to requirements. At the time, the council said thst they would re-instate the green, but so far nothing.

Any enquiries I have made are just greeted with the ususal fob off, ie, 'the person you need to speak to', 'there are no plans'... etc. I have raised this matter with the Greenwich society, of which I am a member, but have not even had the courtesy of a reply. Does anyone out there have any idea about this. I would be very grateful to know, as I seems that the planners are determined to turn this end of Greenwich into a faceless urban centre.

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Power Station

Annabel asks:

I heard rumours that the Greenwich Power Station could be a potential site for re-housing the museum of Theatre from Covent Garden when it closes, do you know anything about this or what the Power Station will be used for?

The Phantom replies:

Hi Annabel. As far as I am aware, Greenwich Power station has been recently refurbished and is still being used as a power station. It certainly was last time I went past! I haven't heard any new rumours that it is being closed - though rumblings have been going round for years - usually emanating from estate agents trying to sell luxury flats close-by..

The rumour you have heard almost certainly comes from the New Statesman from July 2006 where they suggested it might be used for a museum for performing arts incorporating MOMI. Nothing's impossible, but I should point out that the New Statesman was also responsible for the recent (wrong) report that The American Embassy was moving to Greenwich.

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Dudgeon-Type Cycle Network Milepost


Talking of milestones, there is a splendid one at the very tip of the peninsuala which was erected by the Milennium Commission. It's got a figure 1 on the top of it, but I can't work out whether it's the first milestone to be erected or part of Cycle Route One. The website for the Cycle network, Sustrans isn't the most useful I've ever found and although it shows a map, which implies that Route One makes up this area of the Thames Path, I can't find any official route map - others are listed but that one is missing - maybe one needs to buy a book.

Apparently it's a "Dudgeon-Type," officially called "Tracks," designed by Belfast artist David Dudgeon. There are four different styles of markers, all similar, but with significant differences by artists from the four countries that make up the UK. 'Tracks' is supposed to represent the marks left on the countryside by bike-riders though I'm not convinced that that would be a major selling point of cycling. At the bottom there is a poem by Dudgeon himself.

On each of the markers is an individual disc with a motif depicting an aspect of Time, with a part of a secret code. You're supposed to do rubbbings of each one, collect them and crack the code.

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Tuesday, 21 August 2007

Property Ladder

If you recall, there was an episode of Property Ladder on Ch 4 a few months ago which dealt with a property in Combedale Rd. I notice that it will be repeated on Thursday on More 4 at 9.00pm. I shall be watching it as I didn't see it last time - and look forward to discussing it on Friday...

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Monday, 20 August 2007

The Golden Compass

Kratch says:

So exciting: have just seen the trailer for the Golden Compass (Amber Spyglass as was). Greenwich featured twice in the trailer. I’ve attached a still from it so you can see how one of the bits looks. Otherwise, go and have a look at the whole thing on http://www.goldencompassmovie.com/

The Phantom adds:

Yes - I noticed that too - the Harry Potter trailers, if I recall... Yet another instance of Greenwich standing in for somewhere else - Oxford, I seem to remember. It was standing in for Bristol in a DVD of Starter for Ten I saw last week but the weirdest instance I've heard of was in Shanghai Knights (or was it Noon?) Anyone know of an even stranger place Greenwich has pretended to be in return for cash?

Back to the Golden Compass. I'm told The Amber Spyglass is the best of the three, and it looks sumptous. A real Christmas movie. Of course I shall be going...

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Carpenters

Richard asks:

I was wondering whether you know of a decent (and cheap!) local carpenter who makes and fits bookshelves??? My existing shelves are overflowing and am desperately in need of some more!

The Phantom replies:

To be honest, the words "good" and "cheap" don't seem to go with carpenters very often in my experience. There are two carpenters who advertise in The Westcombe News and I have heard good reports of both of them, though none of those reports have mentioned anything about either of them being "cheap." Tom Ellis, especially, has had some rave reviews coming to my ears. I don't have his number to hand but a copy of the Westcombe News should suffice. If you don't get it you can usually find it in East Greenwich Library.

But if you're really looking for cheap, the classic IKEA Billy bookcases now come in a love-it-or-hate-it black and silver foil veneer, I noticed, when a catalogue plopped on my door mat last week (a first - I've never had an IKEA catalogue through the door before. Can't quite work out what that says about the area...)

Any more recommendations for carpenters?

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Saturday, 18 August 2007

Milestone along Morden Road


Now here's a thing. It's clearly 'important' because it has a little railing around it - but nowhere can I find out anything about this sweet little milestone along Morden Road, near the pond at the South-East corner of Blackheath.

The wonderful Neil Rhind, who is usually so eloquent on things like this, doesn't appear to have an entry about it anywhere and The Milestone Society doesn't seem to have anything about London milestones.

Maybe someone who lives in or around The Paragon might have some idea? There are a few scratches on it, but they appear to be the work of local youths rather than any kind of detail...

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Friday, 17 August 2007

Efe's Meze

Trafalgar Road

I have been meaning to try this place for ages and never got round to it, so was delighted when some friends suggested we went there for a group meal. Situated almost next door to Mr Chung, Efe's Meze has a similar clientele - a loyal local audience who have their own particular favourite dishes. Being on Trafalgar Road means virtually no tourists, of course.

It goes back a lot further than I had expected it to and has a pleasingly dark atmosphere, lit with little coloured glass lanterns that remind me of trips to Turkey, and decorated with straggly strands of Devils Ivy. To be honest it's ever so slightly scruffy - but I rather like scruffy sometimes and had no real problem with it. Of course this means there's absolutely nothing posh about it - this is not 'art food' - just your usual Turkish-type dishes that really do bring back holiday memories (well, for me, at least.)

As you walk in there is a guy grilling all sorts of things from fish to lamb over hot coals, which, if nothing else adds to the atmosphere -and heat. It has the added bonus (for them) of making you feel instantly hungry.

If anything I thought there might be one or two too many dishes on the menu - I always worry when there are so many options, that the restaurants will turn out to be jacks of all trades; masters of none, but a closer inspection did have a lot of basics with slight variations - and that's fine. Naturally, the best way to enjoy meze dishes like that is to order a selection and share, and that's exactly what we did for the first course. The squeaky cheese (sorry, haloumi) was grilled to perfection and the dolmi were good and tight, though I packed away more of the stuffed aubergines than anything else (being a particular fan of eggplant.) The taramasalata was a little violent in colour for my liking - a bright pink that reminded me of Gregg's Bakery Swiss buns, but it tasted fine. There was a livery-offally dish too, but it's not my cup of tea so I didn't try it. I'm told it was lovely.

The mains were also good. No surprises in the dishes - just bog-standard Turkish food - but no big deal with that - it was perfectly acceptable food - though admittedly 'local' restaurant fare rather than destination stuff...

The wine isn't great. It's not as totally undrinkable as some I tasted in Tas recently, but considering that there are some decent Turkish wines around, they could have made a bit more effort.

In an interesting little quirk, I am told that when you turn on the driers in the Gents, the lights dim...

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Thursday, 16 August 2007

Slice of Reality



One of the sculptures commissioned for the Millennium Dome, Slice of Reality is looking a little the worse for wear these days, but perhaps that's part of its charm - after all - when did you last see a ship - whole or otherwise - that didn't have a few rust stains around the edges?

It was created by Richard Wilson (no, not that one) who specialises in making familiar objects strange (thank you Mr Brecht) by cutting up architectural forms. He's most famous for that roomful of used sump oil that Charles Saatchi bought - you know - the one where the viewer had to walk in little channels so they could see the world reflected in the goo. I never saw it myself but anything that is equally loved and hated by the art world must have been worth a view...
Slice of Reality is the middle chunk of a ship that has been cut out, glass put over the sides so you can peer in and mounted on the riverbed. It's supposed to continue the line of the Meridian, as though the line itself had cut through the ship, I understand. It "is a celebration of merchant shipping on the Thames" which is quite ironic really, since it could be argued that it was the Canary Wharf/Isle of Dogs and ultimately the Peninsula projects that really sealed the fate of merchant shipping on the Thames...

In 2000, if I recall, it had furniture and instruments in it, but last time I walked past it looked as though that had been removed and it was being used as some kind of store. Yet another instance which illustrates my belief that when art/sculpture/interesting 106 projects are commissioned there should be money ring-fenced at the outset for their upkeep.
I'm sure that I once saw it listed in an Open House Weekend so presumably you could once (and sometimes might still be able to) visit it. Has anyone done that?

Richard Wilson has been nominated for the Turner prize but clearly his work wasn't mad or controversial enough to win. He'll just have to do something really outrageous in the future...

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Wednesday, 15 August 2007

Reality Strikes

I am not generally a fan of reality TV - to the point of actively avoiding nearly all of it (I managed just half of The Tower) but I confess I am intrigued by at least part of a new one to be aired from 6th September. Of course it's only because St Alfege's Guesthouse is going to be featured (probably on 4th October) that I will have any interest in The Hotel Inspector (presumably it's not entirely coincidental that Fawlty Towers springs to mind with a title like that) and I'm mightily intrigued by that particular establishment, having never set foot inside the place, but having a good gut-feeling about somewhere that is independently-run, and where the owner/proprietors clearly give a damn. I have only seen the website pictures and heard reports, but all seem good and I'll be interested to see what appears on telly.

My only concern is why anyone would volunteer themselves to go on reality TV as in my (albeit limited) experience nobody ever seems to come out looking very good on these programmes. TV companies are very good at worming their way into the affections and trust of the people they are filming then shafting them at the last minute, making them look like idiots for the sake of a few cheap ratings. I hope this doesn't happen to Nicholas and Robert...

The Hotel Inspector will begin on 6th September on Channel 5 at 9.00pm. The even more worrying Unseen Hotel Inspector follows on Five Life at 10.00pm. St Alfege's Guest House features on 4th October. Good luck, guys...

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Tuesday, 14 August 2007

The Lord of Greenwich

Juliet Dymoke, 1980

The next in my personal Great Greenwich Book-a-thon, The Lord of Greenwich has taken me forever to wade through. It's only a little paperback - and should have taken a day or so at most, but instead I have trawled it around with me all over the place, managing a mere couple of paragraphs at most whenever I opened the cover.

It suffers all the problems of fiction written about real events and real lives - that the characters are already set in stone and the outcome of major (and many minor) events is fixed. There are historical fiction writers who still seem to rise above these horrible constraints, but it must be very difficult not to just get the main facts down and write a bit of dialogue around them, which is, as far as I can see, exactly what Juliet Dymoke has had to do with The Lord of Greenwich. It's a hiding for nothing, in my humble opinion.

Part of her Plantagenet series, it deals with Duke Humphrey (she spells it 'Humfrey' - probably rightly) and his life up to and partially including his time at Greenwich. I was particularly interested because I've been reading about Humph, and I was hoping to get some insight into his world.

Sadly, it just reads like bullet-points of his life, filled in with some conversation, very little of which adds much. Occasionally it gets a bit exciting - the battle of Agincourt, for example, but I would be extremely surprised if someone could make that dull. Humfrey plods his way through life, reminding us every so often that he's a) a laydeez man and b) he likes books. Every so often he has dinner with Richard Whittington and his wife Alice (where are Dick's cat, Bertha the Cook and the slop-scene, I want to know) or moves on to the next new love of his life - something unavoidable as that's exactly what did happen - but it's tough for a reader to sympathise with characters who waft in and out of a book.

The problems with writing about real life are really that although someone can have a extraordinary life - and Humphrey/ Humfrey's life was never less than spectacular, it's rarely in classic story-format. It's quite often episodic, and some of the best bits are in the wrong place dramatically. Add some frankly rather flat dialogue and you have an unremarkable read. Sorry guys.

I found this a difficult book to enjoy but I'd like to be persuaded otherwise. Does anyone disagree with me? Have you read this and found it a sizzling page-turner?

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Monday, 13 August 2007

Ginza

Woolwich Road, SE10

Good news, folks. I may have found a really decent local restaurant in Woolwich Road. Sounds unlikely? I know. I'm still trying to come to terms with it myself, but all the first signs of this new Japanese restaurant are extremely promising.

We've been watching the site of the old working men's club for sometime now, and I have to confess I didn't have great expectations for it, expecting yet another dodgy takeaway to compliment the array of average eateries already cluttering that part of Greenwich. I didn't even have much hope when I saw it was going to be Japanese food - I was just expecting the kind of substandard noodle bars we have in the centre.

But as we went past on Saturday night we noticed that, without any pre-publicity at all, it was suddenly open. I'm glad we went in as we were not only their first - but their only customers all evening. Hopefully I can change that in the future by telling you it was one of the best meals of any kind I have had for some time, and highly recommending it as a new local restaurant that isn't trying to pander to the cheap tourist pound.

It's simply decorated - dark wood bench seats and plain walls with wooden lattice-work lamps on the walls. The downlighters in the ceiling were a little too bright for my taste; I would have preferred it a little more 'atmospheric' (read 'dark') and the music was also a bit on the bright side (jolly Japanese pop music) but frankly this is nit-picking when there is such good food being served. They've spent some cash on getting printed paper placemats and chopstick cases, but on the whole they've gone for a traditional feel rather than 'funky.' There's no tatami room (unless it's upstairs and I didn't notice it) and no kneeling down - all the seats are normal western style, and although there are a couple of traditional dolls, scrolls and a lucky cat, it's all very tasteful.

Don't be put off by the photographic menu - it's normal in all but the very poshest restaurants in Japan and although in Britain it usually denotes that the customers they're trying to attract can't actually read, in this particular case they're just in keeping with modern Japanese tradition.

The full menu isn't 'on' yet, but what they are serving just now is still quite wide choice-wise and presumably when they have more than a handful of guests they'll open it out fully. We didn't know what to choose so we just got a selection - which meant we horribly over-ordered but, well, what a way to go. I can't remember if they actually do any noodle dishes - but if they do, it is not the main thrust of the restaurant. This is the Real McCoy - and very wonderful it is too.

We started out with some of those lovely rice rolls - I particularly recommend the "California Rolls" which have crab and roe in them, but there are several to choose from. There is a wide selection of sashimi too, which reminds me - if you're a vegetarian you will be able to eat, but the choice will be more limited.

As each of the dishes arrived, they seemed to become more exquisite - next, there was a giant stone bowl heated to volcanic levels containing various rice/veg meats and a raw egg. You're supplied with wooden utensils which you use to mix it all up - it sizzles and cooks as you do it. A bowl of soup containing rice and flakes of baked salmon was very yummy, though once you got down to the basic broth it was slightly less exiting. Not to worry - the pumpkin and sweet potato tempura had just arrived.

By this point we were slowing down considerably. Sadly the dishes weren't. They haven't got their licence yet, so the Asahi beer, plum wine and saki (and a rather dull selection of western wines - an opportunity for Theatre of Wine, methinks) will have to wait. Instead we had a very strange milkshakey sort of thing made with green tea, skimmed milk and fruit, with gooey bits of tapioca in the bottom a bit like raisins. We had the melon and mango varieties - my personal favourite was the melon, but both were very drinkable - if the bits of tapioca kept getting stuck up the straw, which comes with a little spoon on the end to fish them our with.

Just when we really thought it was all over, the grilled mackerel arrived - so beautifully cooked I almost wept that I couldn't finish it.

The service was understandably excited and attentive - it was, after all, their first night. Hardly any English spoken, bless them - the lady in charge spoke a little more than most of the staff, but still not much - but the welcome radiated past mere language.

Can this kind of service and quality last in East Greenwich? I can only hope so. At the moment it is probably my favourite restaurant in the area - but this comes with the small caveat that it was the first day of opening and if they can't get it right on the first day there is no hope...

For that reason I am not designating it a Favourite Haunt - yet. I'll just have to go back a few times just to make sure the food stays as fantastic as it is right now...

They will be doing takeaway - though the menu isn't printed yet. I recommend you go very quickly - not least because there's an opening discount of 10 percent on eat-in, 20 percent for takeaway just now. And yes, of course, this is entirely selfish. I want this restaurant to be a success so I can continue to eat there for years to come.

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Friday, 10 August 2007

Greenwich Park closure?

Valerie says:

Just spreading some gossip, wondering whether you had heard anything
about this yet. Apparently the Park has been closed for a wildlife
emergency today? Is is to protect the deer from foot and mouth
disease?


The Phantom replies:

I haven't been up there today - does anyone know anything more on this?

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The oldest building in Greenwich?

I went on one of those organised historical walks several years ago which was frankly a bit weird on the whole - run by one rather quiet sane person and one very eccentric character who dominated the experience - but I did take one thing away from it. A thing, in fact, that I have been unable to corroborate since, but which I throw out to the ether now in the hope that someone a bit more historically accurate can fill me in on - let's face it - any of the details.

We were walking through the park just behind Park Vista, and pointed out part of a building - a cube-like building, with a little pyramidical roof squashed in between some more modern structures - and probably now part of one big (almost certainly splendid) house. You can only see the top bit but it's clearly Tudor-looking brick and the bit on the ground floor much older than the walls adjacent to it.



I was told on this walk that this was the only existing part of the old palace of Placentia , and that it is the old cover for the water supply that runs through the tunnels in the park. It sort of makes sense - after all, it would have been worth building a good cover for the palace water supply to prevent would-be poisoners - but I'm not sure I buy that it's that old. I didn't think that any of Placentia still existed and I also thought that the water tunnels were younger than that.

Of course it's still possible that this is the oldest building in Greenwich town. There are some old buildings here - but nothing very old - you need to go to Charlton to see Elizabethan stuff, for example, and Eltham for Tudor.

Am I wrong? IS there an older building in Greenwich? In this particular case I truly hope I've got the wrong end of the stick...

Enlighten me, please!

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Thursday, 9 August 2007

Shopping Cart Valhalla...

...Where trolleys go to die...

There is a quiet corner of Greenwich where I always bow my head for a moment in silent thought, surrounded by a small colony of tragic trolleys, used and abused, then finally cruelly abandoned by their callous masters when they are of no further use.

It is, of course, the little cut-through between Tunnel Avenue and the always-enjoyable footbridge across the A102(M)which finally brings you out next to the Odeon.

It's a funny, wide little alley, which takes you between two houses and the little strip of no-man's land next to the road. There are some nice-ish shrubs (which were obviously planted once) and the surface is good. But it does puzzle me why these shopping trolleys are abandoned here, and not further in. I mean - people have already done the hard work pushing them up the curly-wurly slope and over the bridge (I love that bridge - you can see so much from the top - from tantalising glimpses of The Observatory up the hill - and never quite in the place you expect to find it, to the naughty, satisfying smugness you can enjoy looking down at the stationary traffic queuing to get into the tunnel) so why not finish the job and just take the trolley home?

I have a couple of theories - if anyone lives in Tunnel Avenue and can tell me what really goes on, I'd be delighted to have another Greenwich Mystery solved.

My first thought is that the trolleys are used in some kind of extreme sport by the local kids - sitting in the cart and whizzing down the slope in some sort of helter-skelter-on-wheels type activity - scary but all too plausible.

My second idea is that these are people in Tunnel Avenue's personal trolleys - a bit like the free bicycle in Amsterdam that people use and leave around the city. I like to think that people take one back with them whenever they go shopping (I do occasionally when I'm feeling VERY generous) but who can tell?

Sometimes, one of the trolleys has hoisted itself up and over the chainlink fence to the little strip of wildland, presumably so it can die in peace. No one has ever seen how they do it...

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Wednesday, 8 August 2007

Casualty at QEH

Perhaps 3.00am on a Saturday morning is not a particularly fair time to review an A&E department at a local hospital, but it's certainly going to mean you'll see it warts & all - and besides, you don't generally get to choose when you review Casualty as a client.

Don't even ask what I was doing there at that time of the day. Suffice to say I would hazard a guess that I was the only person there that wasn't either drunk, a drug addict or completely loony, and that that is not an atmosphere I would have chosen voluntarily. It was clearly not an atmosphere that the staff would have chosen either - and given the circumstances they handled it reasonably well - with the kind of stoicism normally reserved for saints and long-term soap characters.

Allow me to paint a picture for you (I am assuming you're all healthy sorts who have never crossed those less-than-hallowed portals.) You've parked the car (free, overnight - they graciously assume that at that time you're not a commuter who wants to park at the hospital and schlep the couple of miles to the local railway station every day) and you stagger through the doors clutching Little Johnny with a saucepan stuck on his head.

You'd normally have to take a numbered ticket but at night there are 'so few' people that you can just give your name to the receptionist. She's bored and cross at the same time - but you have to admit she's civil.

Your next challenge is to find somewhere to sit. There are plenty of seats, all joined together in rows, but it's still not easy to find somewhere that you'd actually want to sit. In one row there's a couple of hollow-eyed characters in knock-off designer sportswear that has never seen a gym. They glare at you, challenging you to come anywhere near, but the debris of - you're not quite sure what - has already made sure you're not going to disturb them.

Across the way, a bloke in his early twenties is wearing what, at 8.00 the previous evening, were probably his best clothes. His shirt still has the odd knife-edge crease and his gold jewellery still peeks out from under his collar. But his foot is smashed to pieces and covered in blood, as is his head. The whole of the front of his designer jeans and his special skinny-line shirt is caked in drying vomit. He's muttering to himself, and you're not sure it's all brought up yet...

You guide Little Johnny and his saucepan across the litter-strewn floor to try to sit next to an old woman who swears violently at you and starts screaming. You spot a place across the way, but a group of drunken teenagers carry one of their kind in between them, staggering and lurching, finally dumping her across the row and start waving and shouting at the receptionist that she needs to be seen immediately. You have already decided that the people who work here deserve some kind of medal. You've been here just a few minutes and they've been abused at least twice.

You finally settle down next to the payphone where someone decides to call Eastern Europe. It's obviously a bad line as they have to bellow, but they're clearly enjoying their chat.

You look around the place. There is an untidy display of leaflets about sexually transmitted diseases, which don't prove to be War & Peace. You attempt to decipher that the confusing chart which has various unexplained colours correlating to expected waiting times. You have not been given a colour, but you sincerely hope you are not Orange.

Your friend suggests a coffee, and you rediscover the concept of The Klix Machine - something you had previously thought had become extinct in the early 90s. A peer into the flimsy brown vessel currently warping under your fingers reveals a gooey glob of something that is very possibly but by no means certainly Non Dairy Creamer. You don't even want to go there.

About half an hour later, your wait is over. You are seen by a nurse who writes everything you told the receptionist half an hour earlier down, and tells you to go outside and wait.

A woman starts making a fuss to the receptionist that she isn't being taken seriously enough and she's having to wait. The receptionist is polite but firm and you are intrigued. What's going on here? Is this a regular, perhaps?

Your attention is drawn by another woman who was brought in in a wheelchair looking extremely pathetic. She had been coughing her guts up onto the floor until a cardboard dish was provided but had then slumped back into her chair. But she has suddenly noticed that everyone's busy, and she nips out of the wheelchair and into the loo, returning before she's seen.

An ambulance crew bring someone in and, by earwigging, you find out what's happened to the woman who's 'not being taken seriously.' The crew are furious. She called 999 with a headache, and when they suggested some Neurofen, made a huge fuss and insisted on being taken into hospital in the ambulance. In the meanwhile a man who had a heart attack had been forced to wait for 9 extra minutes.

Three and a half hours later you and Little Johnny are called in for tests. You apologise to the nurse that Johnny's clothes are still what he was wearing earlier that night; she's just grateful he's not covered in vomit. You get sent outside again to wait.

At 6.00am you go out to buy a parking ticket. It is officially morning.

An hour later, Little Johnny finally gets seen by a doctor. Clearly a junior doc, and clearly run off her feet, but politer and friendlier than you would have previously considered humanly possible under the circumstances.

You are finally out, five hours after you arrived. Equal amounts of WD40 and brute force have liberated Little Johnny from his saucepan, the sun is shining and a new staff has clocked on. The cleaners have arrived. You have never been so glad to get out of somewhere and find yourself humming "Oh, What a beautiful Mornin'..."

None of this is the fault of the hospital, as far as I can see. A & E seems to attract some real characters and it's up to these people to deal with them, day in, day out. The waiting room is covered in litter and all kinds of nasty stuff, but the cleaning staff can't be there all day. I don't know what you can do about the drunken chav element that make an experience like this as bad as it is. But those waiting times are scary. Short of extra funds I don't know what QEH could have done better under the circumstances.

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Tuesday, 7 August 2007

Vanbrugh Castle


Sir John Vanbrugh is a classic example of the Renaissance Man (even if he was a bit late to be truly from those times.) There aren't too many people who can have claimed to have written some of the rudest, funniest and most influential plays of their day, become Surveyor to Greenwich Hospital with vitually no experience and been the architect of several of the largest and most opulent palaces in Britain. Hardly surprising, then, that when he came to building his own dwelling, he wasn't going to settle for any old boring house.

He didn't start out very well. The son of a linen merchant in Chester, he decided that the best way to see the world was to join the army. Trouble was, he had a bit of an unusual surname and he managed to get arrested in France because they thought he was Dutch. Since he didn't have any papers on him, they decided to throw him in jail. Rather optimistically, they had assumed that he was really important and put him up for ransom in exchange for some high-end French prisoners. Sadly for Vanbrugh, no one gave a stuff and he ended up there for five years before the French gave up.

By this point he was nearly 30, so he had a bit of catching up to do. He claims to have written The Relapse, or Virtue in Danger in six weeks. Whether he did or not, it was an instant hit, and he was suddenly the toast of seamy, seedy, fashionable London. A natural bon viveur, he was extremely popular with his public (The Provok'd Wife came hot on the heels of his first hit) but not so popular with the other bon viveurs of the day, upon whose square-capped satin shoes Vanbrugh was joyfully treading. He built himself a very curious house in Whitehall, which Jonathan Swift reckoned looked like a Goose Pie (whatever one of those looks like,) everyone laughed heartily and it was known as Goose Pie House ever after.

I have no idea how John Vanbrugh persuaded Lord Carlisle to ditch the highly experienced architect he had asked to build what was to be Castle Howard and hire the experience-free Vanbrugh instead, but that man must have had some gift of the gab. This guy had never built anything bigger than his extremely odd house and had no skill at all as a draughtsman. I mean - the man couldn't even draw. He built a little wooden model to show Carlisle what he had in mind. Presumably he got some tips from his mate, Sir Christopher Wren. Mr Swift was even more scathing. But Castle Howard, with all its turrets and ramparts and crenellations went up and got Vanbrugh another commission.

Blenheim Palace was next. But he started doing all sorts of things not in the original model (actually, he started adapting the old castle in its grounds as, ahem, a bijou residence for himselfand ended up with a very angry duchess, so he wrote some notes about the aesthetics of architecture to placate her and inadvertently created a seminal treatise that is still valued today. But the duchess wasn't impressed, and Woodstock Castle was demolished.

Vanbrugh's fascination with the theatrical pervaded everything he did. Virtually everything he built looked like a stage set. He was renting a place in Greenwich that he hated (John Evelyn visited and even he had to admit it was "wretched.") But he did like the view - and let's face it, the view from the little mini roundabout outside Vanbrugh Castle is still one of the great sights of Greenwich (if a little changed from Vanbrugh's day.)

Because his job was now there (he was surveyor to Greenwich Hospital though frankly didn't do an awful lot) he decided to set up his new roots and Maze Hill, handily next to the park, was as good as any. Vanbrugh Castle was his usual concoction of towers and crenellations, gatehouses, ramparts, arch-y windows etc, in brick rather than stone,and he made sure that he kept his view by making the lead roof accessible - possibly Greenwich's first roof garden. It all looked very medieval and has been claimed to be influential in the beginning of the Gothic revival in the 19th Century.

I am glad that Vanbrugh Castle itself remains to this day (if vastly altered on the interior, presumably) but that makes me even sadder about what is not left. Vanbrugh built a row of about 5 follies in his back garden, placed prettily down the hill to a 'fortified' gatehouse at the road. It must have looked fantastic. It was meant to impress visitors who would travel past each of them as they wound up their own private road just to the east of Maze Hill. Romantic names like "The Nunnery" and "Mince Pie House" (clearly Vanbrugh had a bit of a thing for pies, and let's face it, who doesn't?) and "The White Towers" conjure images that can only be imagined today as I am pretty convinced none of them exist any more (please tell me I'm wrong and someone has one of these in their back garden...)

The Castle, at least, survives, albeit divided into apartments. I cannot comment on the interior as I have never seen it. Maybe you can fill me in? The yellow stock bricks have darkened with age, but that imposing frontage is still with us. Thank heavens.

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Monday, 6 August 2007

Glenister Green Revisited (well - sort of...)

A few months ago I was convinced that Glenister Green - the dull bit of land in between the old folks homes and Mister Fast Fry on Woolwich Road - was actually a cheap holographic image created to cover the tracks of an alien space ship, and that any unsuspecting fool who set foot within those sinister gates would be swallowed up and experimented on (see "Open Spaces")in horrifc fashion.

There is still something very sinister about this scrap of land, especially at night, when although completely visible from the road, the lonely pools of light and the paths that lead round and round lend it an otherworldly atmosphere. I won't go on about all that again - but I have, in the past couple of weeks, noticed that it's not quite as horrid as it has been.

Leaves on the trees have made a big difference, of course, but some man-made improvements have helped too. The mural that used to be outside the hospital has been spruced up (though the tiles are still too far apart, making it look like it used to be somewhere else...) and it now has a plaque (not that I've actually looked at it of course - I'm still not actually setting foot in there. The aliens still loom large in my imagination.) The grass (well, weeds, but it's all green, isn't it) gets the occasional cut and some of the low shrubs that were planted when the place got its 'redesign' have bushed out a bit. It's not enhanced by the giant monstrosity that is the extension of Mister Fast Fry - easily the same size again as the original building and the most uninspired design imaginable, but that's a Planning thing, not Parks.

The biggest difference is that I have actually seen people in there. Granted it's nearly always slack-jawed teenagers loitering round the bins, who have kindly added some enhancements of their own in the form of art-free grafitti but it is Life. And that encourages me. Unless, of course, the aliens have invented a cunning patch for their hologram program that populates their creepy dimensional timeshift gate thingy...

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Friday, 3 August 2007

Ruxley Manor Garden Centre

I have been looking for a fabulous garden centre for some time now. Given the price of land around Greenwich it's hardly surprising that there isn't much more than the piss-poor garden section of B&Q (Homebase is slightly better) but if you go out just a few miles there are quite a lot of them, some more impressive than others. There is one near the M25 which will remain nameless which didn't seem to have a plant in it that wasn't diseased when I visited, but others are at least clean and have a reasonable selection.

But I wasn't prepared for the sheer size of Ruxley Manor Garden Centre. Lovely Anita from House of Beauty told me about it and I thought I'd give it a try. The website looks nice enough but can't show just how big this place is. As you go in, you pass what turns out to be the overflow car park (the 'proper' one is next to the entrance.) What I like is that they have made an effort everywhere. Most garden centres have plenty of plants and then might do one or two displays, the rest being -well - a bit scruffy, really. This place, from the moment you go in. has well-cared for beds and smart displays. Presumably you pay for it in the prices, but I didn't notice many stupidly expensive items (and you know what a skinflint I am...)

If it goes outdoors, Ruxley will have it. There are huge sections of different kinds of plants - palms and ferns, fruit bushes, architectural talking points, perennials, annuals - you name it, they've got it. There are all manner of hard landscape-y things, outbuildings, summer houses, interesting ideas for back gardens from Japanese minimalism to country cottage charm. I particularly liked the dancing teddy bear topiary.

Indoors, every garden tool, accessory and frivolity jostles outdoor wear, conservatory furniture, kitchen stuff and dining clutter. There's a big aquatic and pets department I didn't go into - not my kind of thing, but I'm sure it's the same quality as the rest.

Plenty of loos, a cafe (Anita recommends the panini) and an intriguing-looking Italian Restaurant, which is open not just for lunch but evening too, implying that it's a proper restaurant - we'll see - it's now on my long and growing list of eateries for review.

The old manor itself (more like a lovely farmhouse than a traditional 'manor') isn't open to the public, but is a pretty place, and its attendant chapel, now totally dead, its windows covered in chicken wire to prevent bird damage, is also worth a look - it has a curious ruined tower next door.

I reckon this place is well worth a visit (if you're into gardens of course - if you're not, I'd give it a wide berth...) It's about 20 minutes from Greenwich by car, but much better than the same old, same old (and the horrid queues) at B&Q...

www.ruxley-manor.co.uk

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Thursday, 2 August 2007

Prince

The O2

Prince is the real deal. Whether you like (or even recognise, which frankly I don't always) his music or not, no one can deny that he is one hell of a showman. He can actually play his instrument. He can sing. He can write songs that work for other artists (not always a given.) And he can put on a show.

Which is why, despite his not being my favourite artist by a long chalk, I wanted to see him. I like the fact that he is an innovator - and still, after all these years, a rebel. The very fact that he chose not to 'sell' his latest album at all was a financial coup - he's made far more cash out of it than he ever would at 13.99 in the shops, by giving it away under very strict circumstances - and he's managed to beat the internet download scene at its own game.

I had high hopes for last night's show. And to some extent they were fulfilled. I love performances in the round and it works superbly well for the moment - the age of radio microphones is enjoying a tiny window of hubris before the government sells off so much bandwidth that soon The Purple One will once again share a microphone with local cab drivers and the evangelical church around the corner.

But that's for tomorrow. For the moment Prince can prance around a central stage, built in the shape of his trademark squiggle, and which lights up very pleasingly with various colours and with a little trapdoor in the middle through which the man himself is propelled up and down like a character from Camberwick Green, aided and abetted by a band of superb quality (naturally) led by alto saxophonist Maceo Parker.

At least I think it was him. If I'm honest I was so far away I couldn't be totally sure of anything. It could have been Kenny G for all I could tell. And that was the problem for me. That arena is so bloomin' huge that it's hard to get into music that feels like it's a quarter of a mile away. I enjoyed watching the show, but never really felt engaged with it.

The plasma screens helped a bit. From them I could tell that Prince still looks about 10 years old and he's still a Very Little Man. I could tell that he was giving it everything he had and that he lives for his moments on stage. I could tell that the dancers - all legs and attitude - were giving it everything they had but in my humble opinion looked as though they'd been given a little girl's dressing-up box to clothe themselves with. I'll swear that was a net curtain and a couple of pillowcases with swirls painted on them. Mr Prince's outfit was surprisingly demure as well - simple trouser suits with a few discreet sparkles and Harry Hill collars. I'd have liked a bit more traditional flamboyance, but maybe that's just me.

But the clothes don't make the performance. What he was wearing merely covered the powerhouse underneath and this guy didn't stop for two and a half hours, including encores that seemed to last longer than the show itself. We had renditions of all his hits - "I've had so many hits," he kept modestly announcing. The only break was a frankly cheesy version of Wonderful World by Mr Parker, which though nice at first began very quickly to suffer from the classic jazz/pop crossover saxophonist's problem of too many notes.

Prince cannot give anything but everything and his show was as full of energy and power as ever, but for me it all felt a bit academic. It was just so far away. The sightlines were great (leg room not quite so) but it was like looking the wrong way through a telescope. It wasn't helped by the one selfish cow who decided to stand up and wave herself around throughout, which I guarantee wouldn't have improved her view one iota but which completely blocked the vision of those behind her. I wasn't one of them, but I felt sorry for them - shouting at her to sit down so that everyone else could see had no effect whatsoever. She was enjoying herself, sod everyone else. I shake my head.

Two last Phantom Tips, for if you're planning to go to one of the other 20 performances. Firstly, although the doors open at 6.00pm, the show doesn't start until 8.30pm. Secondly, when the show ends, even if the lights go up, don't be in too much of a hurry to leave. If you haven't had two and a half hours of purple prancing, chances are the show's not over yet. Last night, after multiple encores, and the total exit of the entire band, the lights went up and a good half of the audience left, before a roar of approval heralded Our Main Man, walking back through the audience armed just with a guitar. He went back and did a couple of simple numbers, just him and what was left of the audience, before being joined by the entire band for a good twenty minutes more. You have been warned...