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Monday, 11 June 2007

Peninsula happenings


Being a nosey-type phantom, I couldn't resist going over to the very tip of the Peninsular to see what's going on just a week or so before the Dome reopens as this all-singing-all-dancing entertainment complex.

It's rather eerie at the moment. The actual Thames Path is as quiet as ever - the odd runner, cyclist or walker breaking the stillness that is generally just reed beds, abandoned art-projects and mud-flats. It's an area waiting to happen - I can't believe that there will ever be a peace like this in this area again - unless the Dome is another failure - which as a Greenwich resident I am bound to pray it isn't - I don't think the area could cope with the stigma of the Dome failing twice. There's a sort of Sleeping Beauty feel to it - the core infrastructure from the Millennium ruckus already looking slightly old-fashioned, with its 1990s blue paint though I can't imagine Anschutz waking it with a kiss...

Most eerie is the Pier. The gate was unlocked - a red rag to a phantom - so we lost no time slipping in to have a look round. It's looking good, though very lonely. The ticket offices, complete with dusty windows and grimy barriers, still display the entrance prices - £ 20 for an adult £ 16.50 children, £ 18.00 concessions. It might have seemed steep at the time but when you look at what the average gig at the new place will be costing, it was a positive bargain (of course one could argue that it might actually have stuff we want to see this time round...)

As we were leaving, we met one of the hundreds of workmen on the site. Bare-chested and swaggering, he was happy to chat - not least because of the overtime he's clocking up just now. He told me that if they're not done in time (and believe me there's a LONG way to go) his bosses are going to have a £ 250,000 penalty to pay every week. That means that he and his mates are on massive overtime and he's enjoying the work while he's got it. He seemed to think that the boats will be back in a week's time. I'm less optimistic myself - but since it's private money the chances are that it won't turn out to be the farce that Wembley was.

Leading in from the pier, the path to the Dome itself has been spruced up with a bamboo path designed to hide the horrid bits behind, where the tarmac has been dug up in some places and has weeds growing through it in others. There are other green barriers too. A giant 'wall' made from ivy and box screens what looks like a square, where there is already a working giant plasma screen facing the tube station. There are also some strange square-shaped topiary pillars. I can't see what they actually are, is it's impossible to get very close and security was tight. We did consider joining the queue of people applying for jobs in the restaurants at the main gate just so we could be nosey. Somehow my conscience clipped me round the ear just in time.

Anthony Gormley's Quantum Cloud is looking good - the best I've seen it. The Slice of Life half-a-ship is not doing quite so well. Inside the big blue fence around the dome is a hive of activity - dozens of blokes having a fag break at any one time - but it's difficult to peer in to get a really good look. The old jetty that's been covered with eco-plants is still in good nick (though its sign needs a spruce up) but that water-garden eco-park bit just inside the dome at the very tip is in poor condition. I do have hopes for it in that the wooden walkways are still there and all the reeds etc seem to have been chopped down to the ground rather than hoicked out. Maybe it will be allowed to return.

We walked all the way around the very tip - always a pleasure. I wonder whether it can stay as peaceful when the Dome opens. Only time will tell...

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8 Comments:

Anonymous m32 said...

I love the dome as it is now, often going there to cycle or even just to walk (as long as the peninsula pong is not too bad!). There is something eerie yet beautiful about its ghost town atmosphere. It's still hard to imagine that in a few weeks (yeah right) this will be all Starbucks, phone shops, and maybe even useful places that people actually want to visit.

Part of me is looking forward to it but another part of me will miss the solitude of the area at the moment. There are a lot of 'maybes' about the success of the new dome and I really hope it goes well. But we will see.

11 June 2007 16:26  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

I know what you mean- it is sort of forgotten and slightly eerie at the moment and I suspect it never will be again. We'll just have to find another place of solitude...

11 June 2007 16:44  
Anonymous Gwladys Street said...

I'm one of the often solitary runners using the river path from East Greenwich as part of my most regular training route round the back of the Dome and off to the Barrier or wherever schedule, fancy and tired legs will take me. I'm really fond of it- but it wouldn't be for everybody and I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a woman or younger person on their own.

I expect that, despite the revitalised Dome, parts of the path will remain as quiet as they are now, until the Village grows (which probably won't be very long). The Dome perimeter will, almost certainly get much busier but if you head off towards the Yacht Club, or back towards East Greenwich, my guess is that things will probably remain much as they are. The Ecology Centre will remain as a haven of peace and the clinking of the masts of the small boats will still be as entrancing as ever- no Starbucks down that bit, yet!

11 June 2007 17:37  
Blogger Jonathan said...

I did a solo walk from my flat near the Cutty Sark pub to the Dome a couple of years ago. It was one of the eeriest experiences of my life and quite unnerving walking around these smashed up wharves. Then onwards to the then ghostly and quiety Dome. I will be fascinated to see what it's like inside but that whole riverside area will change beyond recognition over the next 10 years (I think prep work is happening at Lovell's Wharf).

11 June 2007 20:30  
Anonymous m32 said...

I really like the walk from the Cutty Sark to the Dome but I know what you mean about it being eerie. I can't belive they didn't do more to clean it up when the dome was open the first time round as they were promoting the Thames Path a lot at the time and it doesn't exactly give a great first impression of Greenwich - it stinks in places (sorry to go on about that!), is covered in dog poo and parts of it wouldn't look out of place in 28 Weeks Later (which a tiny bit of it was, obviously). Its a nice bike ride but not the best walk, especially not solo. I'm sure someone used to live on boat down there...all very spooky

It will be interesting to see what happens to the path as the peninsula grows over the coming years. It really isn't that far from Greenwich to the dome and it could be so nice but just isn't at the moment.

11 June 2007 23:25  
Anonymous Gwladys Street said...

Update: Part of the river path near the Blackwall Tunnel is closed for three weeks to allow for the demolition of derelict buildings at Bay Wharf, next to the area known as the Victoria Deep Water Terminal. This will open the riverside up quite considerably and, with a bit of luck, should lead to improvements to a stretch of the path that usually has long deep puddles for much of the winter.

The demolition crew seemed to be making good progress when I ran nearby at 7.15 am this morning and I suspect there won't be much of the old structures left by the weekend.

The former council offices by Lovell's Wharf are also boarded up, seemingly ready for demolition (see Jonathan's post- 11 June).

12 June 2007 07:52  
Anonymous Gwladys Street said...

Update 9 July, The demolition work around Bay Wharf is now complete and the path has reopened. A small but new stretch of river view has appeared and a derelict building that was a real eyesore has now gone.. At the O2 end of the path, opposite The Gun, a whole stretch of previously neglected bushes and shrubs have been cut back by somebody who appears to know what they are doing. Things are looking up along the river path.

09 July 2007 21:18  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Good news indeed. I haven't been along there since- well - since the rain came - so it's good to hear that someone (who knows what they're doing) has...

10 July 2007 08:12  

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