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Friday, 22 June 2007

Coffee Cellar

Turnpin Lane, SE10

"The best coffee in Greenwich"

That's quite a boast, given the sheer number of cafes - both in the town centre and the surrounding streets, but it's boldly stated outside this tiny little bolthole in one of Greenwich's most curious alleyways. It's a challenge that at least doesn't go unnoticed.

The weird thing is that in many ways I hadn't really noticed, until relatively recently, the cleverly titled Coffee Cellar, next door to JOY's back entrance (oooh-err, missus),despite the fact that it must have been here for years. Either this curious place used to be something else back in the swinging sixties (from the decor I'd say that was the date of its last refit) or that's as long as its owner has been lurking in the darkness here.

Turnpin Alley is narrow and gloomy, brightened only by its funky little shops - Red Door, Daisy Cakes Bake etc. - and it isn't a natural first choice to sit at the tiny little tables outside, craning to find the last remaining rays of sun. Besides, what makes this place so interesting is its unreconstituted 1960s (early 70s, perhaps?) interior.

Upstairs, the minute shop is painted in muted buff, peppered with stools and a little bar against the banister of the staircase leading down to a lounge-area, also small, and pleasingly scruffy, with low chairs and tables, to be peeked at through a circular window. In itself nothing particularly special.

What really makes this place cool is the tiny little hutch right at the back, from which the coffee is dispensed. The serving hatch to it is also circular but, in suitably psychedelic fashion, the walls behind it are in fabulous mottled-orange mosaic tiles - the closest Greenwich gets to a Mod coffee bar. I'd put money on it's being original, and can almost smell the Vespa oil. A photo of the owner from days gone by gives another clue that I was just unobservant in the past. Service is friendly, and although the guy installed in the kiosk-bit at the back seemed at first taciturn, I got a big smile halfway through my coffee that brought a warm glow to my heart (ahhh...)

What I like about this place is that it has clearly evolved (a very tiny bit) rather than being 'created' like modern "theme bars." A place that had been 'styled' would have, in the niche above the stairs for example, a funky Mod phone or display of 1960s kitsch. What it actually has is a kettle and two equally unremarkable canisters. A theme bar wouldn't include modern metal racks for an odd assortment of organic goods in the window. And yet, somehow it's absolutely ok here. The walls have displays of local artists' work - there's currently some stunning photos of the moon in Greenwich Park and sundry musicians by local photographer Idris de Angeli. I happily passed the time reading from the selection of What's On leaflets which appeared to be quite different from those I've seen in other places. I found a couple of things I'll be checking out later from them.

And the coffee? Well it certainly is very good. The best in Greenwich? I'm not sure. More research needs to be done...

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9 Comments:

Anonymous johnse18 said...

There are lots of places I haven't tried yet, but so far my vote for best coffee in Greenwich would be a toss up between here and Alacosta.

But a nice ambience probably makes coffee taste better anyway, so maybe this is a bit subjective.

25 June 2007 13:30  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

It's a tough one isn't it. If Alacosta could get a little more ambience in their little garden at the back - some bamboo would be lovely - then it would probably have my vote. But this one has a good, unreconstituted feel to it. But, as always more research is needed...

25 June 2007 13:51  
Anonymous Grover said...

I tried this place (the Coffee Cellar) for breakfast early on Saturday morning with a friend who had crashed on my sofa after a late Friday night out.

I don't know if we weren't the owner's idea of the 'right sort' of customer but the service was incredibly rude. So much so, that we decamped to the 'Meeting House' in the covered market where the service turned out to be altogether more pleasant.

It's a shame that some of the independent places seemingly under threat from the chains in the centre of Greenwich have relied for so long on peddling poor food ('Pistachio's on Nelson Road once served me a croissant which had clearly been baked the best part of a week earlier) and even more basic service on the back of their honey pot location. The demise of ‘Goddard’s’ while many so-so eateries persist is particularly galling.

For my sins, I don’t have the Phantom’s enviable knowledge of coffee houses east of the park but I have always found myself heading to Buenos Aires for my morning cup and ‘Maggie’s’ on Lewisham Road when a good fry-up is called for (not quite Greenwich but Maggie provides a fine lesson in keeping up the service even when the place is packed).

25 June 2007 14:09  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Grover, in my humble opinion you made an admirable second choice with The Meeting House - it is one of my own personal Favourite Haunts. I actually foudn the guy in the Coffee Cellar quite taciturn myself, but I persisted and he did improve. The waitress was very friendly.
I've heard all kinds of horror stories about Pistachio's but haven't made it in there yet myself (I keep putting it off, if I'm honest.) I will make an effort next time I am in need of a cuppa, if only so that I can find out what all the fuss is about.

Maggies - I don't know it. But it sounds like a good day out...

25 June 2007 14:13  
Anonymous johnse18 said...

I can only say that I have always found the guy in the Coffee Cellar quite friendly. Maybe it's because I tend to go first thing in the morning before it's got busy and people have started getting on his nerves!

Yes, Maggie's is great, but not really a place for just a coffee; more for a big breakfast or lunch which will set you up for the day.

Great choice, generous portions, and unlimited refills of tea or coffee. Plus the the bubbly eponymous owner who is always buzzing around making sure everyone is OK. I heard talk that she was planning to retire back to her native Ireland but thankfully she is still around.

26 June 2007 10:12  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

OK, you've sold me - it's on the list!

A good fry up is a wonderful thing indeed and it sounds this is well worth trying...

26 June 2007 10:18  
Blogger scared of chives said...

The bloke that's there most of the time is a top man. That place really struggles though - even when things like the marathon are on. Coffee's great.

08 July 2007 19:13  
Blogger Gethyn Williams said...

i too was attracted by the bold claim and promise of decent coffee and so was enticed in one saturday morning when helping my wife with her market stall...

i agree about the decor - it's fab and seems genuine.

on the coffee however, another story. it certainly wasn't the best in greenwich - the hottest perhaps. my americano dissolved the skin from my jaw. and there was absolutely no creme. i didn't see him flatten the coffee with a tamper - a sign they don't really care?

i'm still searching for great coffee in greenwich so i'll go back to your list and try some more. i was equally unimpressed with the organic cafe although royal teas' coffee was excellent.

18 November 2007 11:40  
Anonymous iheartcupcakes said...

We visited the cellar cafe today after buying some cupcakes at Daisy Bakes and had absolutely superb coffee! A cut above the normal chain rubbish and my husbands spicy mocha was lovely!! The guy serving was really friendly and I loved my organic lemon cake - all in all a perfect place for a hot drink and a sit down after stomping round the park for a couple of hours!

09 February 2008 22:36  

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