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Wednesday, 16 May 2007

Royal Teas


Royal Hill, SE10

Every so often I get myself a bit confused. There comes a place that is so "obvious" for review that I actually assume that I've already written about it. It comes as a bit of a shock when someone points out that I haven't. I have no idea how Royal Teas slipped through the net, but there you go. I thought I'd already 'covered' it. There are others which will come up and bite me on the backside, I am sure...

It's a Greenwich institution, of course. Royal Teas seems to have been around for ever - must be twenty years at least. It's ostensibly a vegetarian cafe, though there is the odd dish which includes salmon - it's good to see that they're not too evangelical about it. It's a tiny place, which can get a bit full, especially when there are a lot of pushchairs parked in there, and I have found that timing is everything - trying to second-guess busy periods is an skill which can be acquired with practice.

The front room of what was clearly once a cottage has mix & match tables and chairs, shared with a splendid piece of metal furniture with large drawers for various types of coffee bean and tea, which you can either drink on the premises or take home a bag of to enjoy later. I have no idea what the piece of apparatus in the window is - some kind of coffee-making equipment, I presume, but it's rather beautiful in itself and is purely decorative these days.

The back room has more tables and the counter, leading out to the back where they make all those great snacks and meals, and, of course, their famed cakes. The decor has a slightly 'updated hippy' feel - orange and purple, which is both cosy and welcoming.

I'll warn you now. it will be difficult to finish anything you get served here. The portions are satisfyingly huge. I don't know if they do doggy bags; one day I think it will be worth an ask as it is the sort of thing they might encourage. Among their breakfasts (served all day) is a monster American version which is frighteningly large - but so tasty you find yourself eating far more than you intended. The baguettes are shoved full of so much filling that it's most inelegant to try to eat (though I have a minor gripe with one I had the other day in that I had vast amounts of cheese and salad, but the effect was rather dry - I could have had less cheese and replaced it with a little butter to bind it all together.) I've never had the cream tea, but I've watched other people tucking in and I will get round to it one day, judging from the looks on their faces it will be well worth the wait.

The cakes are fabulous. I don't really need to go into too much detail as I'm sure I'm preaching to the converted. My favourite is the lemon, but more research is needed to be absolutely sure.

To anyone who doesn't know, the slightly odd "fairy tale" in the window refers to a long-running dispute with Greenwich Council. After many years of R.T's existence, the council suddenly discovered the place and, at first, heaped praise and help on its owners, offering them grants and all kind of plaudits. It was only later that the council changed its tune. The place didn't have a proper licence, it argued, and the men in grey tried to shut it down. Royal Teas itself is fighting back, aided by devoted local residents (though the most local - the person upstairs, I'm told, moans about the disruption. How does this happen, I wonder? Someone moves in above a cafe, then complains that they live above a cafe? Maybe I've missed something here...)

The dispute with the council rumbles on. In the meanwhile, Royal Teas continues as normal, its friendly, cheery staff coping as best they can with the question mark above their heads. Visit them while you can (though, as a dedicated 'good loo' aficionado I must warn you - don't make a pilgrimage for the restroom facilities - there is a certain charm about it and it's perfectly clean but it's hardly a 'destination loo') and let them know that this is the kind of thing we need to encourage more, not less of, in Greenwich.

http://www.royalteascafe.co.uk/

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12 Comments:

Anonymous Erica from Holland said...

Dear Greenwich Phantom, I lived in Blackheath (just up the road from Greenwich) for around 6 and a half years. I then moved back to Holland (where I am originally from) but still really miss Greenwich and Blackheath. I found your blog a couple of days ago and am sooo happy to have found it.
I read about all these places that I used to know, all the new things that have come in, changes etc... It's brilliant! Thanks for being my Greenwich-lifeline!
Erica

16 May 2007 09:25  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Greetings, Erica! How good to hear from you. Does that make me an International Phantom of Mystery...?

What's the place you miss most?

16 May 2007 09:32  
Blogger Knit Nurse said...

Royal Teas certainly is a fantastic place, and I'll second the vote for the lemon cake. Their soups really should get a mention, as they come in huge bucket-sized pyrex dishes, the sort you'd normally serve four portions from, and are usually accompanied by homemade scones or bread. *rumbling tummy*

16 May 2007 15:04  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Thanks - I forgot the bucket-o-soup they do!

16 May 2007 15:08  
Anonymous Grahame said...

Hi
Another international reader here - I'm from the area, lived in Lee for years, went to school in Blackheath, and of course spent plenty of time in Greenwich - but now I live in the States. So, like Erica above, it's nice to have a little window back home.
Keep up the terrific work.

-Grahame

16 May 2007 15:49  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Aw, gee... Thanks...

16 May 2007 15:52  
Anonymous Erica said...

Hi Greenwich Phantom, yes that does indeed make you an International Phantom of Mystery because you have me and Grahame - and I am sure a lot more international readers!

Ooh there are so many things that I miss about Greenwich and Blackheath. I used to live very close to the park and used to take a stroll there quite often. I even remember being stuck in there one night with four flatmates (the park had just closed and we had to climb across the fence!)

I really miss Goddards Pie & Mash shop but sadly I read that it has closed (how could they...) but I also just miss being in Greenwich, reading the Sunday papers in one of the cafés, taking a look at the market and having a drink at the pub in the market (can't think of the name now).
I used to go down to the Trafalgar Tavern quite regularly too and spent my last night in the area at the Gypsy Moth.
Look what you've done, you've opened a box of memories here.

Thanks for your blog, I will definitely keep reading it to get my fix.

Erica

16 May 2007 20:45  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Every so often I get myself a bit confused. There comes a place that is so "obvious" for review that I actually assume that I've already written about it."

That's OK, as long as you don't give away the secret of La Fleur located at the bottom of Royal Hill next to the vegetable shop and the butchers. Just one hint, there's a tea garden out the back! Fantastic deep filled baguette sandwiches, I can especially recommend the liver pate one. Just promise to keep this secret spot to ourselves or I won't be able to get a table next time! ;)

Matt

16 May 2007 21:39  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

I ADORE la Fleur. Sorry - at some point I will be reviewing it - I can't help myself, but, tell you what, I'll take a tip from the goverment and bury it quietly on a busy news day so no one but us notices...

;0)

17 May 2007 08:05  
Blogger The Greenwich Phantom said...

Thank you Erica. I know what you mean about just being here and enjoying being here - not even going anywhere specific, just enjoying the atmosphere.

17 May 2007 09:39  
Anonymous Grahame said...

Hey Erica
Being Dutch, do you remember that woman who sold those fantastic Dutch caramel waffle biscuits thingys in the Market? They were so tasty I bet I put on about 2 stone just from eating them.

Carry on.

- Grahame

17 May 2007 14:57  
Blogger I heart cupcakes said...

I finally made it to Royal Teas on Monday - every time I went past before it seemed to be heaving but thankfully the bank holiday rain scared all the people away and we managed to find a place to park our wet bottoms!
The place is FAB! We had cake (my husband insisting on his with ice cream as they suggested on the menu!) and a coffee and a pot of tea and it came to an amazing £7!!! Fantastic Value.

28 May 2008 21:01  

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